Happy Birthday Travis!!

October 24, 2009

I woke up this morning wanting to call Travis to say Happy 19th Birthday, but then realized that he may not have appreciated the early morning that it would have been in Oregon for him. Darnit. Oh well. Happy Birthday Travy-Doo!

We all slept in a little after our late night of coffee sipping with John and Blake. Cafe Java is open to midnight, and we definitely took advantage of that last night. So we didn’t really feel like getting up early. Once we did, though, we made our way to Good African Coffee for breakfast. It was ok this time, but unfortunately for them, Cafe Java is proving to be a little more appetizing. (Really weird to be comparing coffee shops while in Africa, but I suppose that old habits do die hard after all). Karly and I remained there after Alli and Jessie had to go get varnish and little more paper. It afforded us a great opportunity to get to talk more and realize that we have a lot in common. It was refreshing to talk with her about the incredibly strong urge to be in Africa long term, the difficulties of dealing with people in the US not understanding, and how to balance having a ‘foot’ in both continents. Karly has a huge heart for the nation of Sudan, and it was incredible to get to talk with her about it. What a blessing to be getting to know her!

We met up with Alli and Jessie after a while for lunch before we made another trip to Owino, this time to search for articles for our Halloween costumes. In Gulu, as may have been apparent from some earlier entries, there is a really neat group of expats who are totally a community that I’ve been really blessed and encouraged by. Anyway, part of this group began a tradition a few years ago of celebrating Halloween in Gulu. This year will be the third annual Halloween costume party, so we needed some costume materials. The word Jessie, Alli and I are going for is ‘epic.’ How often do you celebrate Halloween in Gulu, Uganda? Its really just silly, but completely fun and I’m excited to get dressed up with the girls. We were in need of some pretty specific items, so we figured that Owino would be the best place to start. This market literally has everything you an imagine, so we began a treasure hunt of a different kind this afternoon. First on the list, was finding Karly a hat that would help her with her Jack Sparrow costume. After digging through a few heaping piles of hats, we found one that would be adequate, and Karly bargained for the price she wanted. Then we tried for fabric. We couldn’t really find any, so we decided to cross the street and check out some of the little kiosks. Numerous times I was about to give up, but again, with the addition of a little laughter and encouragement from Alli and Jessie, my resolve was restored. We ended up walking all around the ‘mall’ across from Owino, crossing the taxi park and starting up an ally before we were able to find the correct fabric. Apparently, in Kampala, people don’t sell just one meter pieces, normally. And unfortunately, there is no place like JoAnn’s, so the search really is intense. We did finally have success, and continued on to our hotel for the evening. I never would have thought that I would be spending my October 24 of 2009 walking across numerous busy Kampala streets, dodging in and out of traffic, bartering for fabric from a lady who could have flattened me with one swing, and laughing about it all as these girls whom I have come to really love and I walk up a busy Kampala ally, but man, its a fun way to spend a day. 

Owino Market Once Again

October 23, 2009

This Friday morning we slept in a little after arriving in Kampala so late last night. We all sort of work up and got ready around 9 am and then headed to Cafe Pap for breakfast. After eating some good food we parted ways with Karly, as she was going to her boyfriend’s graduation ceremony today. We headed to Owino for another fun morning of paper hunting and on our way, we were on bodas when going through an intersection we collided with the boda Jessie was on. Alli and I were riding with Jarod, a driver that the girls use a lot while in Kampala, and he had thought that Jessie’ boda was turning, but they hadn’t, so we ran into them. Luckily the speed of both of us was no substantial enough to have caused any injuries, but it definitely provided a wake up call. Often times I find it easy to forget just how dangerous it is to ride bodas because we do it so frequently, but today was a little reminder.

We arrived at Owino and made our way in to the paper aisle. Our entrance in wasn’t easy though, as two big trucks were trying to come down the narrow road that leads into the market. It is fairly comical when this happens, as there is absolutely no spare room alongside of this road so pedestrians have to attempt to squish in to aisles and passageways in order to not get ran over and not have to retreat all the way back out to the street. Alli and I ducked into one such aisle, along with a number of other people. I felt really bad for Alli, as she ended up getting pretty squished as people kept pressing in. I made the comment that those are the worst mosh pits I’ve ever been in.

Finally the second truck passed and we all poured out into the roadway again. The only problem with that was that not only had a lot of people been held back from entering the market, there was also a large number of people who weren’t able to exit because they couldn’t get past the truck. So now these two large groups of people were battling to continue in the directions they had set out traveling in. Quite an interesting experience, and I just kept laughing as I got pushed around. There is not much else that can be done but to laugh about these things. 

When we arrived at the paper aisle, I was already sweating profusely, but was excited for the treasure hunt that would soon begin. The paper ladies laughed and welcomed us, offering us the new product they had recently been shipped. Once again I appointed myself as the bag holder, as I really was uncertain about what the girls would be looking for. Just observing all of the exchanges was enough for me. The ladies trying to sell EVERYTHING, the girls accepting a few samples, the bartering, the purchasing and then the deposit of the paper stack into the large plastic bag. Each step being just as comical and colorful as the last. And then the whole process happening again at the next “company.” 

We had a very successful morning and each walked out attempting to carry an awkward, slippery plastic bag weighing at least 50 pounds. I only made it a short distance before having to admit I would not be able to complete the journey out to the street. One of the guys who had been helping us in the aisle was already carrying the bag Alli had, and he stopped when I set mine down. I had assumed he would just ask someone else to grab the bag, but instead he bent down and asked someone to place the bag on top of the one that was already on his head. He stood up with probably around 90 pounds on his head and began walking through the crowd to the street. I just stood there for a moment, in awe.

Once we got to the street it was now time to board the bodas. Usually they insist on balancing a bag of paper in front of them on the gas tank and will not allow you to hold on to the bag. I’m not sure if it is a polite thing or rather if it is just easier for them to control the weight of the boda that way. At first it made me nervous, but I’d much rather allow them to hold on to the paper than to attempt to , move it at the wrong time, and create bad momentum that might result in a wreck. Kampala streets are hazardous enough as it is. Case in point, as we were ascending the hill away from Owino a boda almost T-boned the one I was on. We were coming from the right and he was looking left, but creeping forward. We swerved around him, and arrived safely, but still. These streets are interesting.

We had a relaxing afternoon and evening, as we were all pretty drained from our various escapades of the day. John and Blake met up with us later and we were able to visit with them. Once again, I’m blessed by the community that I’ve been invited into here. It does not make leaving any easier, though.

Late Night to Kampala

October 22, 2009

Even though today would have normally had me at work, I wasn’t able to go because of the depletion of films yesterday. Instead I  slept in and used today as errand day before heading to Kampala with the girls for the weekend. I checked my e-mail, dropped some extra balloons to my friend Jeremy’s guest house, found a way to make a Ugandan flag patch, and had a relaxing lunch while reading a new book I started.

The book I began reading is called Jesus of Suburbia, by Mike Erre. Jessie was reading it when I got to Gulu and suggested it to me. Its a great book that really asks a lot of the same questions I have been asking, and so I feel like it helped to spur my thoughts. I think that being here has opened my eyes to so much more than ever before in my life to the things that I have accepted as ‘normal.’ This seems to happen a lot while traveling, but especially in Uganda and Rwanda I have seen my norms be challenged and the necessity growing for me to redefine some things that I have always accepted as the way it is. Though its difficult in a way, its also really good.

Later in the evening, after a little discussion, us girls decided that we would take the midnight bus to Kampala. There is one that runs very late in the evening and we decided that the time we would save the next day might just make it worth it. The whole process of us getting on the bus was pretty comical, but we boarded at 9:45pm and arrived safely (though the ride was interesting) in Kampala at 2:30am. After a taxi dropped us at New City Annex, it was time for sleep!

Empty cassettes

October 21, 2009

I walked to work this morning and I’m not sure what it was but I felt like an extra amount of bodas were trying to get me to allow them to carry me to where I was going. I understand that its business for them, but it kind of became a little frustrating. I thought I was home free as I turned into the courtyard/ally that leads to the hospital from the main road, but I still had a little more adventure before me. A boy was walking towards me and when he saw me walk past, he turned and began following me. He was complimenting me on everything he could think of, but before I had walked past him I noticed that he didn’t seem to be fully with it. Like maybe he wasn’t all there mentally or he was intoxicated. In this sort of situation I just try to ignore the person’s advances and continue on my way, but he was determined, and then, right before I was about to turn into the big steel gate of the hospital, he grabbed the strap of my bag I carry to work. He kept saying “I want to stick with you. Let me stick with you.” I began to tell him, in an elevated voice to draw attention, that he needed to let go of my bag. We went back and forth for what seemed like a really long time, but probably was only fifteen seconds, as I tried to remove his grasp from my bag. He kept repeating that he wanted to stick with me, and I kept demanding that he let go. I was trying to remain very aware of what he was doing, as I didn’t know what he would do next. He finally released his hold and I quickly resumed my walk into the department. On my way in, a man who had been watching came to ask me what all of that was about. I said I had no idea, but assured him that I was fine as I proceeded in the entry way. After a few more seconds, and after getting out of ear shot of the people near the gate, I just began to laugh and thank God for His protection in that situation. Those sorts of things do not happen in Gulu, and that is the first time ANYTHING like that has happened to me in Africa, but it was pretty intense for a few seconds there.

At about 11 am the film supply ran out. I was able to do about eight x-rays today, but then had to turn patients away. I processed the films I had taken and as they dried I left for lunch, letting Atim know of the situation. I also went and told Morris. He said that now it is up to management of the hospital to get more films to the unit, and if they didn’t, the unit would remain closed. As I walked out of the hospital the only thoughts I had were questions about whether I had done what I was supposed to. In a way I feel like I have failed these people. I wasn’t able to fix the problems, nor was I able to provide a lasting change, as far as I can tell. I just kept wondering if I had really done any good. I was almost in tears as I prayerfully exited the steel gates. I wonder what ‘success’ I was expecting. What does success in a place so impoverished look like? What was I supposed to leave behind and did I leave it? What a humbling thing for me to have these questions arise as I walked out. I realized, in such an incredibly real way, that just like I ultimately can’t control the preservation of my own life, so can I not control the effect my being in Gulu will have. God was in charge of getting me here and He is also in charge of the results that come out of it. I just pray I did it right, from my end.

Maternity Ward

October 20, 2009

I arrived a little late to work this morning, as there were a few things I wanted to get taken care of before I began my work day, but I was welcomed warmly by patients waiting for the results and films to be taken. I don’t know if its really me that they are excited to see, or just someone who will make their wait a little shorter. Oh well. They greet me with smiles, thats enough for me. 

One patient I was able to x-ray was a little 5 year old girl who was absolutely beautiful. She was so sweet and quiet as she waited, but had to be carried into the room when I called her name because she was unable to walk on her left foot. See, she had sustained some sort of injury to the side of her foot (maybe she got cut by glass or something like that) and now the entire top of her foot was an open, swollen, weeping wound. It literally looked like her foot was turning inside out, and there was a terrible amount of pus weeping out of it. The requisition asked that the x-ray rule out osteomyelitis. I completed the ap and lateral view of the small foot and then allowed the young girl’s mother to come back in and pick up her daughter. I had the mother step out, as she had another baby on her back, in true African mama style. The little girl didn’t make a peep the whole time I was doing her x-rays, but sat quietly as I moved her very hot little leg into the position I needed it to be in. And while I was there, x-raying her, I was ok. Though I realize the amount of pain she was probably in, I could emotionally deal with it. But now that I am recounting it... Dang. Why does it have to be that way? Why does she have this potentially life threatening issue on her foot that if it had been treated well in the first place would not be there? The longer I am here, the more these questions come up and the deeper the breaking of my heart goes. Don’t get me wrong. I am still loving being here. But it is heart wrenching and as relationships with these people deepen and grow, I can no longer brush it off as just the way it is. 

Another patient came to the unit to have a chest x-ray done. She was from what is called Ward II, which is the medical ward. She was painfully thin and had a very difficult time standing for her chest x-ray. We got through it, though, and I sent her back to the ward. Before I did, though, I asked the woman who had come with her which ward she was in so that I could deliver the film if it was done before I left for the day. She said “the women’s ward,” which I took for maternity. When the film was done being developed I walked over to maternity. I had been in the entrance many times, as the ultrasound scanner is down the first hallway. However, I had never ventured any further into the two story building. A doctor doing intake pointed me up the bare hallway and told me to try th various rooms. I ascended the ramp and turned into the first on my right. There before me was a disturbing scene. In a room about fifty feet long and twenty feet wide there were two rows of metal framed twin beds. Windows allowed daylight shine in the room and a bathroom was at the end of the long room. On every bed and the floor space between the beds were people. New mothers recuperating with their babies who were just delivered laid on every bed and supporting family members spanned the bare floor space around the cots. Bright African fabric cast a stark contrast between the sterile white washed walls and steel fame beds, while the faint cries of new lives were heard over the muffled conversations of patients and family members. All eyes went to me as I asked about the patient whose film I was there to deliver, and in that moment the reality of where I have been these past few weeks finally hit full force. No bassinets, no separate rooms, not even curtains or chairs for visiting family members... And as the answer came back that the patient was not there, and I proceeded to the next room, the scene was repeated. I continued through the ward, climbing towards the second level, where instead of an empty hallway I was greeted by very pregnant mothers, waiting for their labor pains to begin. Not even a bench existed for them to rest on, only the cold concrete floor. Some could not garner the strength to stay awake for the conversations swirling up and down the hallway, and were napping on the hard ground. All of the expecting mothers smiled at me and as I inquired about the patient I was looking for, someone who spoke English assisted by asking down the hallway. I finally found another doctor who remembered that the patient I was looking for was in the medical ward, so I left the maternity building, but not before having my heart completely messed with by the way that even the beginnings of lives occur here. To say nothing is easy here is a vast understatement. I am amazed by it all. 

I returned from delivering the film and sat down to talk with Charles as we waited for the processed films to dry. Though I had met his family and had seen where they live, I felt like I wanted to ask him more of how life is for them. Because I’ve worked with him for the past four weeks and could have been tricked into thinking that he was ok due to his professionalism and daily appearance. So I began by asking how things are for them. Do they have enough to eat? What do they need? He wouldn’t tell me anything specific but did say that eating was sometimes a gamble. Sometimes they would need something and there was no way to get it. And he didn’t say it in a way that was asking for assistance, but rather just the facts. He is a man with an incredible heart, whom I have been completely honored to work with.

We spoke a little about the fact that he just had to bury his mother in law, also. I asked how old she was. He replied 62, in a matter of fact way. To me, that is young, but to him it was about the time that she would pass away. He said that it just happens here. Death is a part of life. Its not that they do not care, as I have seen an incredible amount of honor given to the deceased, but death happens, and life continues. 

Charles thanked me for coming and said that he thought God would bless me for coming and helping the people here. I replied that I hoped instead that God would bless them. Me being allowed to come and serve in Gulu is my blessing. It is my blessing already being delivered. Maybe instead God will pout out more on these beautiful people I’ve met. That is my prayer.

Busy Monday Morning

October 19, 2009

As I’ve found to be typical on Mondays, this one was busy. If someone is requiring x-rays they have to wait until Monday morning because our department is not open on the weekends. So that makes Monday mornings in the x-ray department very busy times. 

A couple of hours into the day I realized that the films I had purchased only one week prior would not last through this week. I had only been able to buy two boxes, and the supply was already dwindling. With my own resources running low, and no word from administration about when more films would be delivered, I soon realized what the near empty boxes would mean for the department and patients. It seems to be a reoccurring problem and I don’t know where the root of the problem is. Whether the money truly is not there, or whether it is being diverted into someone’s pocket, I don’t know. I do know, however, that without films no x-rays would be taken at GRRH. Seeing what I have of the patients’ conditions, that worries me a lot. To not be able to do an x-ray on a TB patient could prove to be fatal. Or to not be able to demonstrate how badly a wrist is broken. Suddenly the problems I might have faced while working in the US seem very small. What I wouldn’t give to be able to provide such speedy and high quality care to these precious ones also...

Along with it being a busy day, I earned my keep today as well. Charles was unable to come to work to do the death of his mother-in-law over the weekend and the need for him to help with the burial, and Lawrence (a guy who sometimes fills in for Charles) was only able to come for about an hour. This required me to act as secretary, radiographer, darkroom attendant and film deliverer. Before I knew it, lunch time came, so I stole away from the department for a quick break before heading back to dispense more results. I worked straight through until 5 pm and then it finally died down. I was able to leave the hospital by 5:30, which was no problem for me. I went home tired, but satisfied after a full day of hard work.

Holy Hotcakes

October 18, 2009

Church was great this morning at Watoto. A very interesting and growing sermon about the enemies to our faith, given out of Deuteronomy was brought forth, and I learned a lot from it. It is so encouraging and heart-wrenching to be in a room full of brothers and sisters who are from across the globe. The body of Christ is so much larger and more vast that what I seem to always expect it to be.

After church the girls and I went to the market to grab a few ingredients for brunch. When Jessie was in college, apparently, her and her roommates would host Holy Hotcakes on Sundays after church. We decided that we would attempt it, Gulu style. Wow. It turned out to be so delicious! Though we used maize flour instead of wheat flour (so the pancakes were a little gritty) it was really appetizing. Insert a few bananas and some cinnamon and I was completely satisfied. Not only was the food so good, but also the company was refreshing and filled up my soul. I have been incredibly blessed in this little city in northern Uganda to meet and become friends with some absolutely incredible people. Individuals, my age, working towards making this world better through various projects and initiatives. Always very aware of the impact, whether positive or negative, that they are having, and striving to leave Gulu better than they found it. It is inspiring to know these people, to say the least.

Breakdance Competition for Peace

Ocotber 17, 2009

Saturday was fairly relaxing, and found me at home most of the day. The rain came about mid-day and threatened to keep me in the house for the rest of the day, but then it retreated. Jessie, Alli and I were joined by Eric (our boda driver) and headed over to Pece Stadium for a previously advertised breakdance competition. 

I had seen a banner over one of the roads stating that it was an event entitled “Breakdance for Peace and Positive Social Change.” I was interested in how that would occur, and was very impressed by it. A group of dancers had decided that instead of breeding hate and allowing misunderstandings of religious and cultural beliefs to causes problems, they would use their dance talents to be used to instigate change. It was incredible! There were a few performances by the crew, and then various skits which would be explained by members of the crowd afterward. And then there was the competition, which anyone could join. Twenty people, in two sets of ten, battled for the title and grand prize, a brand new bike. There was a lot of talent up on that stage, but the winner ended up being a guy who played up to everyone’s love of Michael Jackson, complete with a jeweled glove. He was a very talented dancer, and the crowd went crazy with his costume and ability to get it like MJ used to. I fully enjoyed the competition and definitely had a few laughs. These guys were legit and I admire there determination to see their community changed.

After the competition we headed to the Ethiopian restaurant for dinner. I have really come to enjoy this restaurant. Injira is a pancake type bread that is served with a bunch of veggies and meats on it. To eat it, your hands are used as you pick up the various toppings in a little injira envelope. I was a little dubious about it at first, but the more I eat it, the more I enjoy it, and have even found myself craving the stuff. Its very filling, also. Maybe I’ll ask how to make it and recreate it when I get back to the states. 

Village Tour with Charles

October 16, 2009

On this day at GRRH I finally felt like I am settled into working here. I am sad to realize that it has finally happened, now that I will be leaving next week, but nonetheless, it does feel like home. I have relationships with my colleagues now, and that does more to help me feel like I belong than anything else. 

There were not many patients today so by four o'clock, Charles and I locked up the unit and headed towards town. We took bodas to the Mola Clinic in town, in order to greet Morris and make sure there were no patients that Charles needed to attend to. We made small talk in the office for a few minutes and then began walking toward a village southwest of the town center. On Kampala road, which coincidentally heads to Kampala, we headed south and Charles said we would go to see the market on that side of town. Libidi (I think that is how you spell it) is this part of town, and we were going to visit the smaller market to see if they had simsim. My coworkers had been jeering me tirelessly because I did not know what the small seed looked like, nor had I ever tasted it. They could not believe that I’d never seen it. Charles and I looked for it at the market, but were unable to find it. What we did find, though, were veggies, fruit and a long table of fresh fish being cut. It was not the most appetizing looking fish, but there were people waiting in line to purchase it. After passing through the market, we continued on to the village. We weaved in and out of the traditional round huts that are so prevalent in this part of Uganda, until we finally came to a small courtyard. Uhuru and I had been chatting the whole time that we walked along, and he was walking briskly. Then I noticed him slowing down and when I had finished what I had been talking about, he introduced me to his home. I was so surprised as he hadn’t said that we would be visiting his home today. And as we looked around, there were some women sitting in the courtyard. I had a sneaky suspicion he knew them, and within a minute or so he introduced them as his wife and daughters. I was so honored to meet them! We spoke a little about their home and family and pretty soon I was able to meet Patience, also. She is Charles youngest child, and is 5 years old. She was so precious, and beautiful. I asked Charles how many children he has and I think he said seven. However, his sister is no longer around, so he pays the school fees for about 16 kids, four of which are in secondary school. All of this he does on a small income. It was very eye opening for me, that my colleague lives in the situation that he does. Ruined me a little bit more, as well.

We continued on through the village and I was also introduced to Charles son, Stuart, who is 17 years and in Senior 3. He looked ‘smart’ (good) in his collared shirt and bright smile. We exchanged pleasantries before Chalres and I continued on. I was able to tour the whole village that my coworker lives in and even meet the ‘president’ of the village. He was an older gentleman who was very pleasant to speak with. I don’t quite know what is culturally acceptable here, so I just tried my best to be respectful. He thanked me for coming and helping his people. I told him I was honored to be here. I don’t have words for how honored I do feel to be here, serving these people. Though what I do may only touch a small portion of this population, and sometimes that can feel like a failure, I hope that it somehow helps. If all that comes is that I made friendships with my coworkers, I will be satisfied in that. 

No power = No x-rays

October 15, 2009

I prepared to take my first x-ray and had the patient all recorded and then, “Ah! No power!” This is a common enough occurrence in Gulu to be an annoyance. It does not happen all the time, but sometimes it hits at a crucially busy time. This morning, luckily, was not that busy, but the power outage did result in patients having to wait longer than usual for their x-rays. They all laughed when I explained the issue to them, but I could tell from their faces the disappointment. 

I have found that there is a delicate balance to find in accepting things as the way it is, but then also challenging and trying to improve things also. For instance, we can all laugh at the power outage, because in reality, there is nothing to do but laugh. But on the other hand, no power is not conducive to good patient care so I feel like I should be attempting to help solve the problem as well. At what point do issues like these go past being acceptable or tolerable? I feel like so many things have been the way they are for so long that there is a mindset that says things will never be better. However, in healthcare especially, the striving for improvement should always exist. I’m learning so much these days.

All in all the day at work was good. I was in a very good mood and was able to joke around with some colleagues and patients, which always makes me feel more at home. When I got back to the house the girls said that they were thinking Chinese for dinner, and I agreed that it sounded good. I typically don’t like Chinese (at least in America) but figured I’d give it a shot. It turned out to be absolutely delicious, and I was very glad we went there. After dinner we decided to try our luck at quiz night, though it didn’t end in our winning. Darn. It was a fun time spent with some people I hadn’t seen in a while, and I was refreshed by spending that time with them. Not a waste at all.

Hospital Tour

October 14, 2009

We got back to Gulu just fine yesterday, even though the bus ride exhausted me. I can’t say I will miss those long drives. Then I began back to work this morning. Because there had been no films there were quite a few patients to x-ray so I began right away. I had only been able to purchase two boxes of films, and with the load on this day, I knew they would not last long, but I began working anyway. I felt like the intensity of my demeanor turned up a little because of the patient load, but thats ok. I can’t do it all the time, but sometimes its really nice to be so busy and get the adrenaline running.

There were some frustrations, however, as patients do not wear identification. I had called the name of a patient and a certain man stood up, saying he was the one. With no patient identifiers, I took him at his word. Come to find out, he was not that patient, but the patient was really the one from the ward who had to wait all morning while we figured out the problem. I never saw the first patient again, which was even more frustrating. I don’t understand why he’d come get x-rayed for no reason, but then again, there are a few things here that I don’t understand. 

One blessing of this day, though, was that there seemed to be an extraordinary amount of patients who spoke English. It is such an incredible blessing every time it happens! I never would have thought that it would really make that much of a difference, but especially on busy days, it makes all the difference in the world. If nothing else, this experience has really made me more grateful for things in the US that I have taken for granted in the past. Being able to communicate with patients adequately is definitely one of those.

I had a patient come with an order for a hysterosalpingiogram. This exam, to test the patency of the fallopian tubes, is impossible to complete our department. I had to turn her away, but before that, I looked at the indication on the requisition. She has been married for one year and has been unable to conceive in that time. Immediately I understood the implications of that. This culture is very big on family. So much of people’s lives are centered around their families and the number of children a wife is able to ‘give’ to her husband ends up determining his place in the society. The more the better, and in the village, a man is not considered a man (able to sit in the counsel of the elders) unless he has children. Many children mean that your name will continue on, and that the legacy is bigger. So to read that this woman has been unable to conceive is no small thing. Her barrenness may become a source of shame and contention in her marriage if she is unable to carry a child. Even if the man is the culprit for the problem conceiving, the woman will still sustain the brunt of the shame. I pray that this particular woman does end up being able to conceive.

I took lunch at Cafe Larem and spent my time reading the New Vision (one of Uganda’s papers) and eating a delicious grilled cheese and tomato sandwich. I had seen a few other white people at the hospital earlier in the morning but only from a distance. But as I was sitting at the cafe I recognized one. I asked him if he was working at GRRH and he said for the time, yes. Normally they work at Gulu Independent, but had been doing some classes at GRRH in conjunction with the University. Nick, as he introduced himself, is part of a small group from a hospital in Manchester that is here on an exchange sort of program. It was a great conversation for me, as it afforded me an outlet to speak about the challenges of providing medical care here. And how being in a place like this makes us appreciate where we were able to work before. We also discussed the pain tolerance of people here, and how its so much higher than people in the UK or in the States. How if the people we would care for were asked to endure a fraction of what people here do, they would scream. Its incredible how different things are.

After I returned from lunch and we had given the results to patients, Charles began showing me around the hospital. I had never seen the other wards and was curious. We began at the TB ward, then to pediatrics, nutrition, medical and surgery. At the urging of Charles, I had brought my camera along. Some people wanted me to pay them for the photos I clicked, but Charles luckily explained that I was a volunteer and would tell their stories through those pictures. Most just asked me to bring them copies of the photos. I said I would try to do that. I would love to write about all of the wards and everything I witnessed, but that will have to happen at a later time. I’m still trying to process what I saw. I don’t know that I will ever fully be able to process it, but I will try. For their sakes, I will try.

I think I have come to realization that I have no idea what life is like here. I have seen a small portion of the sick and hurting, but those are only the ones who make it to this hospital. What about those who can’t get here for medical treatment? And in all honesty, part of me wants to see it as just the way life is here. Its easier to think of it that way. But a bigger part of me won’t allow it. One and a half year olds who barely weigh over 15 pounds is not life. That is horrible. And it just gets to me, because it seems like American lives are valued more than these precious ones here. It rips me up to think that way, and then to realize that maybe these beautiful Ugandan people would think that to be the case as well. 

Owino Market Adventure

October 12, 2009

After such a full day on the Nile, we were all exhausted the next morning. I felt like I had been hit by a full dump truck or had just spent my entire day on the mountain riding and crashing on the slopes. I was sore in numerous places, and had a few bruises peaking through my tanned skin to demonstrate the abuse my arms had endured while on the river. Nevertheless, we all rose in good moods and got ready for the full ‘work’ day. The girls have to go to Kampala every other weekend to purchase supplies for the 31bits ladies. And as an interested on looker, I decided that going to Owino Market for paper hunting sounded like fun. 

Before we set out for the adventure that awaited us at the market, though, we all made our way to Cafe Pap to ‘fuel up’ for the day. This is a great little cafe really close to City Annex Hotel (where we were staying) with fast internet, legit coffee, and delicious food. Count me in! I had a latte and granola parfait and loved it. Its also a nice place because white people are not gawked at, as at some restaurants. 

After Cafe Pap for breakfast it was time for me to be introduced to the sheer chaos that is Owino Market. I don’t know how else to describe it but that way. As you near the entrance to the market  on the boda, the traffic and crowd becomes thicker, meaning more horn honking and more weaving between taxis, bicycles and pedestrians. Not entirely unsettling, but pretty close. Then we dismounted from our bodas  and attempted to enter the market. I say attempted because coming our way was a huge African style semi squeezing down the narrow road that is the entrance to Owino. It ended up requiring us to retreat back to the street in order to not get ran over. All of the Ugandan people around us began laughing as us Muzungus were running from the truck. I was not trying to get ran over today. Once that challenge got past us, I began the joy of trying to keep up with Jessie and Alli as the purposefully made their way to the paper aisle. About a hundred feet into the market (which took about ten minutes to get to because of all the people and goods being sold) we came to the treasure chest of the paper bead business. In an aisle that is just wide enough for two people to pass by one another sideways, and about thirty feet long there were veritable mountains of mistake paper that would we now got to sift and search through to find just the right color, size and thickness. I nominated myself as the bag and paper holder as I watched Jessie and Alli barter and deal for the best paper. It was an absolutely overwhelming, exhausting and exhilarating hour. Each vendor has a different sort of approach to their business  dealings, and each was as unique as the shades of paper we observed. One lady was the grandmother type, very welcoming and warm. Another was some what of a diva, though very funny and enjoyable to joke around with. And another was all business, stern and straight, no funny business. 

After an adequate amount had been found, we made our escape. The walk out was just about as exciting as the walk in, as we dodged puddles, some spilled g-but paste and the numerous vendors vying for our attention and resources, all while carrying large bags filled with the recycled paper. And the adventure didn’t stop when we arrived at the street. The group of boda drivers tried to get us to use them to get to our next destination, and some even came to ‘help’ us with our bags, which translated into them just grabbing the bags from us. Luckily, Jessie and Alli have done this before, so it wasn’t as much of a shock to them as to me. We finally figured everything out and departed from the market.

While the girls returned to the market for more paper, I made my way to a building near the Central Police Station, to buy x-ray films. I ended up purchasing two boxes from Grace, a petite little Ugandan lady with a big smile. She was very helpful, and I bought the filsm for 170,000 UGX, or $135. These films would hopefully last until the hospital could purchase more. I never knew I would come to Africa and purchase x-ray films to contribute to the hospital, but thats exactly what happened. 

After a few more errands we all convened at the hotel again and decided lunch would be a good idea. We found a great pizza place, and shared a delicious pizza pie and some salad. Definitely not something I had been able to enjoy here yet, so I was grateful for it. And then we decided to enjoy some American entertainment and went to the movie theater. We decided on “Fame” which I ended up loving. Though I don’t really watch that much television while in the US, it was nice to go and just relax in the theater for that hour and a half. Between the coffee shops, river swimming and movie theater, I don’t think there is much I still miss about the US. Well, save for my family and friends. Those things are sort of irreplaceable... 

Nile White Water Rafitng

October 11, 2009

Well this was the day. My day to check off an entry on my life’s to do list. My ‘fun’ day for Uganda. The day that I would flirt with danger and white water raft the Victorian Nile. I woke up fairly early, partly because of an upset stomach and partly because something like rhinos were running across the roof of our dorms. I could have sworn that they were elephants playing tag on the tin roof, but we later realized that monkeys had provided the wake up call. Ya. Monkeys, rolling nuts along the corrugated tin roof at 4 am. Not the nicest of wake up calls, but it was very effective. 

Alli, Jessie and I had breakfast there at Adrift and spent the morning talking with the friends we had made the evening before. We had to wait for a few people to arrive from Kampala, so we just hung out until about 9 am when they arrived. At that point Bob called us over and gave us the pre-river schpeal. Basically, tie your clothes on tight, don’t wear shoes, and put on plenty of sunscreen. 3000 feet above sea-level, on the river at the equator equals some intense rays hitting your skin, so better put on the screen and keep re-applying all day. After putting our things on the bus that would eventually take us back to Kampala, taking a potty break and making sure we had our helmets, life jackets and paddles, we made our way down to the water. Our group on the river would be two rafts holding customers, a safety raft carrying a couple of seasoned river guides, and a grip of kayakers who would act as our retrieval buddies if we fell off the raft. 

There is a slow part of the river right after we boarded the boat that served as a great place to practice a few drills, get us in the river, and make sure that we knew the commands that Bob would need to shout out to us along the way. He was great at explaining things, and I felt very safe being in the boat with him as our guide.

The day was epic. We hit a ton of rapids, including four class fives. I got dumped out of the boat three times, but exited the water with only a couple of bruises, a few sunburnt spots on my skin, and a huge smile realizing that I had just rafted down such a huge river. We had such a sweet time, not only in the rapids, but also with the conversations on the boat. Alli, Jessie, and I were in our raft with three German citizens, one who works in Kampala. They were about our age and really funny. Bob guided us well, and I would definitely tell people to have him guide them. He also guides in the US for a company called Tributary, and has been doing it for some time. We ended up being a good team and had a lot of success getting past tough spots on the river. Probably the best part of the whole trip though was when we would actually get dumped from the boat. I loved being in the water and then to know that we were swimming in the Nile made it that much better. The day ended with us getting a ride back to Kampala on the bus provided by Adrift and just reeling over the epic day we had just experienced. Incredible...

River Rage

When in the raging waters I’m found

by Your hand I will not drown.

Though the torrents in power rage

My feet will find a spacious stage.

Your love is greater than this storm

For under Your wing I’m kept warm.

It looks like death is sure this time

but Your vision is broader than mine.

Your plans are something too great for me,

but when I trust You, there I’m free.

Oct 10, 2009

Haven Rest

October 10, 2009

Waking up early this morning afforded me to watch the sunrise over the Jinja countryside as I spent my devotion time with God. I have had alone time with God in some pretty incredible places before, but this one might have topped those. It was so peaceful and really just had me sitting there, in awe. Not only did God make and create the beauty of laid before me, but He also has blessed me to allow me to experience it. I really don’t understand how I could be so lucky, but its incredible. I felt an unexplainable peace as I watched the sun rise over such a gorgeous landscape as well, know that just like God was timing those colors to present in the beautiful artistry I was witnessing, so He also was and will continue to orchestrate the events of my life to be just as pleasing to HIm. I need not fear what is unknown, but rather just need to rest in Him and in His hands as He forms and molds me.

After that special time I went inside, showered, and got ready for the day. Our breakfast was incredible and things just kept coming. We feasted on freshly cut fruit, omelette, fresh baked bread, passion fruit juice, bacon, coffee and jam for the bread. I ate way too much, but it was delicious that I couldn’t help it. I have had an appreciation for small things grow on this trip, and jam is definitely one of them. 

The rest of our day we simply relaxed by this beautiful panorama. Some time was spent reading, journaling, playing cards and just conversing about life. We kept on joking about how we were going to check off a life long goal after tomorrow and that got each of us thinking about what those goals were. I began my list. And its going to make for some fun adventures in the coming months and years. 

We left the Haven around four in the afternoon and rode in a taxi to Adrift. I don’t know if its just the area, but the rain began and we watched as it poured down all aroudn us. It was incredible, to say the least, and actually very refreshing for me. I have really missed the fall time Oregon weather, so actually feeling like I needed to wear a jacket was great!

We arrived at Adrift and made our way to the dorms to set our things down. I wish  my camera would have had charged batteries because the inside would have been great to take pictures of. There were bunk beds to the ceiling, and four sets in the room. It really looked like something out of a National Geographic I saw once that showed dorms in China. Our beds were four high and pretty impressive. The ‘facilities’ were communal, though clean and nice. I have become exceptionally grateful for whenever there is a seat to sit on (not just a hole in the ground) so these were veritable thrones to me! The dorms were a far cry from the luxury at the Haven, but for a few girls used to living in Africa, it suited us just fine.

We decided to remain at Adrift for dinner that evening and headed to the bar to see what kind of food we would be able to order. We ended up splitting a pizza and some chips as we sat and talked. Then we decided cards would be fun. Nerts began and we were soon joined by Jack.

We had met Jack when we first arrived. He is around 20 years old (we never got that out of him) and hails from the north island of New Zealand. I instantly loved his accent and we figured out that he is the bungee master for Adrift. We attempted to convince him to allow us to jump for free, but to his credit he didn’t allow us to do that. He did offer us a discount, but with all of us operating on a budget, we couldn’t justify the expense. It is on my life’s to do list, so we’ll see if I return to take him up on it. Jack was very fun to talk and laugh with and I appreciated his story. He was offered the job in Jinja and boarded a plane a couple of weeks later. He was so down to earth, and had not pretense or facade. He was just himself and we could take it or leave it. The same proved to be true of Josh. He came and talked with us as we were playing cards, also. He is from Canada and is employed as a raft guide for Adrift. We ended up laughing A LOT this evening, which proved to be very good for me. I definitely need to do that more. Our evening came to a close and we retreated to our sky high bunk beds to rest up for the next day of rafting the Victorian Nile.

Uhuru Day

October 9, 2009

Uhuru Day (Independence) had myself, Alli and Jessie off to Kampala on the Post Bus at 8 am. We got all settled in and headed south. Alli and I had some sweet conversations on the six hour bus ride about spiritual outpourings and speaking in tongues. It was really nice for me to be able to talk with her about it all, not only as a discussion, but also as a mutual edification. As we spoke and rode along, we noticed an extraordinary amount of meat hanging alongside the road in various kiosks. As today is Uhuru day many people would be buying extra meat for their various celebrations. At one stop, in fact, we got to witness a couple of men literally hacking away at quarters of beef with machetes. Pretty intriguing, at least to me. They are skilled in chopping it up, that is for sure!

The bus ride wasn’t too bad, and I even squeaked in a few minutes of sleep along the way. I definitely was glad to get off when we did though. Our first stop in Kampala was Good African Coffee for brunch, but we got off the bus some ways away. So in the African style, there were bodas waiting who eagerly agreed to carrying us to our destination. I was a little nervous to jump bodas in Kampala (its kind of crazy) but Alli and Jessie knew that and graciously helped me to feel more safe. It turned out to be a fine ride and we got to the restaurant with ease. Its a really great restaurant/coffee shop and I was able to satisfy one of my cravings for a tuna fish sandwich. With a little mayo added, I could have been tricked into thinking I was in the US.

As we left GAC we were going to take bodas to the bus station after making a stop at the bank. Then, as we were getting on bodas again, we realized that there was a bank atm where we were. We asked if the bodas could wait for us while we ran to the atm. They agreed. When we came back, however, we only recognized one of the drivers. As is normal, they all wanted a fare, so one lied and said he was one of the original ones. The boda driver who I was going to take was telling him no, but apparently words weren’t working. Before I knew what was happening the driver got off his bike and went and removed the keys from the other driver’s bike. This all happened in slow motion as I realized they may throw blows over this. Luckily it ended with the lying driver conceding but it was intense for a minute. I sometimes wonder at how man times that sort of thing does happen. Not because of people’s anger, but maybe just because of the necessity for resources.

The boda ride was something I just had to not pay attention to. The jam wasn’t horrible today but they still weave in an out of traffic, coming incredibly close to collisions at almost every block. I realized what “getting skinny” meant on a boda when we crammed between two matatus. (Mini vans turned into taxis). Better tuck your knees if you want to keep them!

The boda actually dropped us at the wrong place, but Jessie’s got her to the right place somehow. So Alli and I got off and then walked over to where we needed to be. We sort of got separated and so spent a few minutes trying to figure out where Jessie had been dropped at. There was a woman standing there who kept saying “I know where she is. She’s just up there.” I wasn’t sure if I should listen to her or think she was a little bit off her rocker. She went to try to find Jessie at one point, but came back saying she had moved. Jess finally found us and then the discussion began about which bus to take. The taxi parks in Kampala are like the county fair on steroids and packed into an area about the size of a high school football field. There are tons of people, tons of matatus and tons of rag-tag shops. It can be pretty overwhelming, but like most things in Uganda, if you add a little laughter it becomes very fun.

The lady who had tried to find Jessie ended up leading us through the maze that is the taxi park and helped us find the correct matatu that would carry us to Jinja. I say she helped us, but it was motivated by the thought that she might get some monetary support. I realized that to be the case as she lingered around the taxi we had boarded expectantly watching us adjust our things. We handed her a thank you in the form of some shillings and then settled back for our trip.

It took about three hours to get from Kampala to Jinja and despite being in a matatu, it was a very pleasant ride. The closer we got to the source of the Nile, the greener and more lush the scenery became. It was very glad for it, as it reminded me of the beautiful hills in Rwanda. 

When we finally arrived we were dropped at a taxi park and due to the rain that was falling on us, we decided to get a taxi to take us to the Haven. There ended up being some confusion with the taxi driver, but we eventually arrived and were simply amazed at how beautiful the place was. We kept on just laughing and asking if we were really in that beautiful of a place. It is a gorgeous campus with numerous private bungalows that all have an incredible view of the Nile River. Even from our showere, the window allowed for a stunning view of the river.

We spent some time walking around the campus and made our way down to the river. The Nile forms a breath-taking and calm pool right in front of the Haven’s property, but then turns into a class five rapid, so the effect is a calming pool with the powerful sound of the water in the distance. I think I just stopped and watched at least five times.

After looking around and talking with the staff about the area we returned to our room to get ready for dinner. We had all decided to dress up for our dinner together, so I got to try on my new dress. I had it made by a woman named Florence, in the Gulu market. It turned out very nicely. 

Our dinner was delicious, and three courses long. First was a pumpkin soup with homemade bread, then mashed potatoes, fish and carrots, and finally a marble cake with ice cream. It was very delicious and so fun to share with these two girls who are quickly becoming such great friends to me. 

After dinner we decided that a few rounds of Nerts (a really fun card game) was in order as we drank our post-dinner coffee. We moved inside of the lodge and played as we laughed and joked around. It was such a sweet evening of fellowship and made me really enjoy that place so much more. Though I was missing friends and family, it was such a fun time that I really couldn’t worry or think about it too much. What a blessing!!